Ultimate Beginner’s Guide
Just Got Your Ants? Here Is Exactly What To Do Next
A step-by-step masterclass on unboxing, acclimating, and housing your new ant colony.
The Critical Unboxing (Safety First)
The journey from our warehouse to your doorstep can be bumpy. When the package arrives, do not rip the box open in a panic. Ants are sensitive to light and pressure changes. If the package was cold or hot, moving them into a room-temperature environment too quickly can cause thermal shock.
The AntNook Inspection Protocol:
- Calm Check: Gently remove the test tube. If the queen is on her back, don't panic—she might be resting or stressed. Give her 30 minutes in a dark place before confirming her status.
- Hydration Status: Check the water reservoir in the test tube. If the cotton is dry or the water has leaked, you will need to prepare a fresh tube immediately.
- The First "Sugar Hit": If the queen looks lethargic, you can offer a micro-drop of honey or sugar water on a tiny piece of foil. Warning: The drop must be smaller than the ant's head to prevent drowning.
The "Dark Quarantine" Period
This is where most beginners fail. You want to watch them, take photos, and show your friends. DON'T.
A newly arrived queen ant believes she has just escaped a predator or a cave-in. Her stress hormones are peaking. In this state, if she senses vibration or light, she may eat her eggs (brood) to "save" the nutrients for a better time. This is a biological survival instinct.
Feeding: Proteins vs. Sugars
Once you see the first workers (Nanitics), the biological needs of the tube change. The queen is no longer the only one to care for; you now have a hungry workforce.
Your Weekly Feeding Schedule:
Carbohydrates (2-3 times a week): Sugars are the gasoline for the workers. Use AntNook nectar or organic honey. Always remove uneaten sugar after 24 hours to prevent mold.
Proteins (1-2 times a week): Protein is the building block for new larvae. Without protein, the queen will stop laying eggs. Best starters: 1-2 fruit flies or a tiny leg of a cricket.
Professional Secret: Always freeze your feeder insects for 24 hours before feeding. This kills off parasites like mites that could wipe out your colony.
The Big Move: Moving to an AntNook Nest
When is the colony "ready"? Beginners always move ants too early. A small colony in a huge nest feels exposed and scared. They will use the empty chambers as a trash dump, which leads to toxic mold.
The Readiness Checklist:
- Worker Count: Wait for at least 15-20 workers for large species (Camponotus) or 30-50 for small species (Lasius).
- Activity Level: If workers are constantly trying to pull at the cotton plug of the tube, they are telling you they need more space to explore.
- The Connection: Use a short piece of tubing to connect the test tube to the outworld of your AntNook nest. Never force them out. Let them discover the new home on their own time—this can take anywhere from 1 hour to 1 week.
Micro-Climate Management
Ants cannot regulate their own body temperature. They rely on you. To grow a colony fast, you need a Thermal Gradient.
Place a heating mat under only one side of the AntNook nest. The ants will move the eggs to the warm side for incubation and move the queen to the cool side for safety. This choice is vital for their health.
Long-Term Maintenance & Success
As your empire grows, consistency is your best friend. Create a routine. Check hydration levels every Sunday. Clean the outworld every Wednesday. By being predictable, you reduce the colony's stress and maximize the Queen's lifespan (which can be up to 15-20 years!).
Need More Expert Advice?
Our team of myrmecologists is here to ensure your colony thrives from day one.
Click the "Contact Us" widget at the bottom right for 24/7 support.
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